Ever since the industrialization of the beauty industry in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the transition from ancient, herbal-based cosmetic formulas to chemically-driven mass production marked a significant departure from humanity’s long-standing relationship with natural beauty. [1] For centuries, people around the world relied on plant-based remedies rooted in tradition and efficacy to enhance health and aesthetics However, the rise of industrial beauty–first pioneered in Europe and North America–sidelined these time-honored approaches in favor of synthetic, scalable alternatives. How often do we stop to question this risky business?
To get a sense of how far from our wise ancestors’ ceremonial, medicinal, and spiritual uses of beauty enhancers we’ve come, take a look at these recent, increasingly alarming headlines:
In an era where beauty brands compete to project an image of environmental consciousness and health, terms like "clean" and "green" dominate the conversation. But what do these buzzwords genuinely mean, and how can we, as conscious consumers, make informed decisions about the products we use on our body’s largest organ (the skin) every day?
The distinction between “clean” and “green” beauty is critical—not just for personal health but also for the planet we inhabit. This week, we aim to demystify the science, uncovering the hidden risks of our modern, conventional beauty products. The end goal is for you to feel empowered to explore practical solutions for more conscious beauty routines resembling what our ancestors practiced rather than the progressively harmful future of cosmetics.
Ancient Herbal Beauty Traditions
Pre-industrialization, beauty practices were deeply intertwined with nature and culture, tailored to the local environment and its unique botanical wealth. The world’s first beauty routines were grounded in holistic medicine. For example, Chinese women used pearl powder to brighten their complexion, a practice dating back to at least 320 AD, with records dating back to the Shen Nong Ben Cao Jing and other pharmacopeias around this time.
Similarly, Ayurvedic traditions in India, and throughout South and Southeast Asia, featured ingredients like sandalwood, turmeric, and neem, which were used to soothe the skin and promote a radiant glow. Japanese women relied on camellia oil for hair and skin health, and rice water was used to enhance skin clarity—a practice still revered today, particularly by the geisha.
The Middle East’s beauty rituals were also steeped in using natural oils and aromatics. Hammam (traditional steam bath) rituals combined cleansing with herbal exfoliants like rassoul clay. Other examples include rosewater, widely used in Persian culture and perfumery, and argan oil, native to Morocco, skincare staples celebrated for their anti-inflammatory and moisturizing properties. Kohl, made from galena or lead sulfide, was applied to the eyes for beauty and its protective properties against harsh sunlight. properties.
Likewise, across Africa, indigenous herbs and oils have long played a central role in beauty. Shea butter, native to West Africa, was prized for its nourishing properties, while in Southern Africa, the oil from native marula trees was used to hydrate the skin in arid climates. In North Africa, the Middle East, and the Indian Subcontinent, henna, a multipurpose plant, has been used for hair conditioning and body art, symbolizing beauty, spirituality, and protection.
The Indigenous peoples of Latin America also harnessed the power of plants like aloe vera for skin care, calendula for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, and papaya for its natural exfoliating enzymes that promote healthy skin renewal. The Aztecs used tepezcohuite bark as a natural healing agent for burns and wounds, while Andean communities relied on quinoa for its nutrient-rich properties. In jojoba oil’s native climates of northern Mexico and the Southwestern U.S., it has been traditionally used for moisturizing and healing properties, particularly for treating dry skin, sunburns, and scalp conditions. The oil’s composition, closely resembling human sebum, made it an effective natural remedy for maintaining skin hydration and balancing oil production. Indigenous peoples in these regions would incorporate jojoba oil into their beauty and self-care routines, using it to nourish the skin and hair in the harsh desert climate.
It’s important to note that while hese ancient traditions often reflected sustainable practices, this wasn't always a conscious choice—it was often a necessity due to reliance on local resources. Still, these practices leveraged the wisdom of nature to create beauty products that were safe for both the body and the environment. So when did this stop being the norm?
The Industrial Shift From Plant-Based to Chemicals
The industrial revolution of the 19th century, fueled by technological advancements in Europe and the U.S., dramatically altered the landscape of beauty as we know it today. By the mid-1800s, products like Vaseline (invented in 1867) and coal tar-based dyes began to replace natural ingredients. Companies like Coty (founded in 1904 in France) and L’Oréal (established in 1909 in Paris) led the charge in developing synthetic fragrances, preservatives, and hair dyes. The global reach of industrial beauty products often overshadowed traditional practices, as colonialism and trade introduced Western beauty ideals to Asia, Africa, Latin America, and the Middle East. These ideals emphasized fair skin and Eurocentric features, further eroding indigenous beauty traditions.
By the 1940s and 1950s, the post-World War II economic boom accelerated the use of synthetic materials, including parabens and phthalates. These chemicals were marketed as convenient and effective solutions despite limited research on their long-term safety. While industrial beauty products became more accessible worldwide, they often ignored the rich diversity of traditional beauty practices and introduced new risks to consumers' health and the environment.
Lamentably, synthetic ingredients like microplastics and non-biodegradable preservatives have grossly polluted waterways worldwide. In Africa, for example, beauty products sold in urban markets often lack proper disposal systems, compounding the environmental toll. The shift away from natural ingredients has also led to reduced reliance on native plants that were once integral to beauty rituals. As demand for synthetic chemicals grew, the cultivation of medicinal plants, such as neem in India or marula in Africa, declined in favor of industrial crops.
The industrialization of beauty has led to more widespread adoption of synthetic ingredients, many of which pose risks to human health and the planet. For instance, endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs) like parabens and phthalates, now found in products globally, have been proven to interfere with hormone systems. Further research has found that people in regions with heavy exposure to industrial products, including urban areas in Asia, Africa, Latin America and beyond, had higher levels of these toxins in their bloodstreams. [2] [3]
Defining the Difference Between "Clean" + "Green" Beauty
The “clean beauty” movement emphasizes products formulated without harmful chemicals like parabens, phthalates, sulfates, and synthetic fragrances. While this term lacks regulatory enforcement, it primarily focuses on human health: minimizing exposure to substances linked to hormone disruption, allergies, or long-term health risks.
One of the main concerns in conventional products today is the presence of endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs). These compounds interfere with the body’s hormonal systems, potentially leading to reproductive issues, developmental problems, and an increased risk of hormone-sensitive cancers. Studies have repeatedly shown the dangers of EDCs like parabens and phthalates:
Parabens, common preservatives, have been detected in breast cancer tissue. Research has detected measurable levels of parabens in nearly 100 percent of breast tissue samples analyzed, suggesting their potential accumulation in the body over time.
Phthalates, often found in fragrances, are linked to lower sperm counts and disruptions in thyroid hormone levels. Research indicates that prenatal exposure to phthalates can impact child neurodevelopment.
Consumers may aim to avoid these chemicals by choosing so-called “clean beauty” products, but the absence of a universal standard means brands can label themselves “clean” without transparency. In contrast, “green beauty” extends beyond human health to consider the environmental impact. This movement focuses on sustainability, biodegradability, ethical sourcing, and eco-friendly product packaging. It champions natural ingredients derived from renewable sources, often avoiding petrochemicals and prioritizing low-waste production.
Consider microplastics—tiny particles used in exfoliants and cosmetics. These particles are not filtered out during wastewater treatment, entering waterways and harming marine ecosystems. According to a 2018 United Nations report, personal care products' microplastics contribute significantly to ocean pollution, adversely affecting wildlife and human health. Moreover, synthetic fragrances, staples in conventional beauty, often contain volatile organic compounds (VOCs). VOCs contribute to air pollution and may have long-term health effects. Inhalation of VOCs, even in low doses, is linked to respiratory irritation and oxidative stress. Green beauty advocates argue that these concerns warrant a shift towards plant-based, biodegradable formulations that are as kind to the Earth as they are to our skin.
Hidden Threads: Fragrances + Synthetic Chemicals
Many beauty products list the term “fragrance” on their ingredient list—a single word that can mask the presence of hundreds of undisclosed chemicals. These substances, protected under trade secret laws, often include phthalates, benzene derivatives, and synthetic musks.
According to a 2012 report in Environmental Health Perspectives, whose authors studied over 200 commercial products to evaluate their EDC and asthma-associated chemical content, “many detected chemicals were not listed on product labels.” Alarmingly, these compounds do not stay on the skin's surface; they can be absorbed into the bloodstream, magnifying their potential effects. Keep reading about the “dirty business” of essential oils on the blog here. Or, learn the basics in under 30 seconds in this video about “red flags” for essential oil buying.
EDC's in Beauty Products: A Closer Look
Endocrine-disrupting chemicals are not limited to fragrances; they lurk in preservatives, stabilizers, and packaging materials. Here are a few common culprits:
1. Bisphenol A (BPA): Found in plastic containers and lids, BPA mimics estrogen and has been linked to infertility and developmental issues.
2. Triclosan is an antimicrobial agent used in some skincare and toothpaste. It may disrupt thyroid hormone metabolism. Our nutritional raw, vegan, organic coconut-clay tooth polish offers a highly alkalizing plant paste alternative filled with enzymes, minerals, and probiotics.
3. Formaldehyde-releasing preservatives include quaternium-15 and DMDM hydantoin, which slowly release small amounts of formaldehyde, a known carcinogen.
Protecting Yourself From Environmental Toxins
The European Union has stricter regulations on these substances than the United States, underscoring the need for more stateside consumer vigilance. Switching to truly conscious beauty products doesn’t have to be overwhelming. Here’s how you can protect yourself and make the transition easier:
1. Scrutinize Labels
Look for certifications like USDA Organic, COSMOS Natural, or EWG Verified. These third-party certifications indicate a commitment to safety, transparency, and environmental standards.
2. Prioritize Simplified Ingredient Lists
The fewer ingredients, the better. Opt for products with recognizable, plant-based components. These ingredients are less likely to contain hidden toxins.
3. Avoid Synthetic Fragrances
Choose unscented or naturally scented products using essential oils. However, even essential oils should be used cautiously, as they may irritate sensitive skin if improperly diluted. Keep reading about the “dirty business” of essential oils here. Or, learn the basics in under 30 seconds in this video about “red flags” for essential oil buying.
4. Embrace DIY Solutions
Herbal infusions, clay masks, and oil blends are simple, customizable alternatives to store-bought products. For example, a chamomile-infused oil can soothe sensitive skin, while an argan oil and frankincense blend is excellent for anti-aging.
5. Focus on Packaging
Sustainable packaging is a hallmark of green beauty. Glass jars, aluminum tins, and compostable materials minimize the environmental footprint of your beauty routine.
The Clean + Green Path Forward
While the clean and green movements have distinct focuses, the ultimate goal is holistic well-being—for you and the planet. As herbalists and eco-conscious consumers, we should advocate for beauty products that honor both priorities. Integrating plant-based formulations into your routine nurtures your skin and creates a deeper connection to the natural world. Herbal ingredients like calendula, chamomile, and lavender have been celebrated for centuries for their soothing, anti-inflammatory properties. By choosing these time-tested remedies over synthetic counterparts, you're embracing safety and sustainability. .
In recent decades, a global resurgence of interest in herbal beauty and clean, green practices has sought to bridge the gap between ancient traditions and modern needs. Eco-projects, smaller entrepreneurial endeavors and producers worldwide are revisiting traditional practices and renewing their commitment to environmental and economic sustainability while integrating scientific research to create safer products and long-term thriving for their communities.
Herbal wisdom reminds us that beauty, health, and nature are inextricably linked. The plants teach us to live in harmony with our environment and honor the interconnectedness of all life. Conscious beauty extends this philosophy, merging personal care with planetary stewardship. Take hydrosols like rose or neroli, for instance. They are naturally antimicrobial, safe for all skin types, and provide a sensory experience that elevates your beauty routine–a prime example of green beauty: minimal processing, zero waste, and maximum benefit.
Navigating the world of beauty products can feel overwhelming, but understanding the distinction between clean and green beauty is a decisive first step. While clean beauty prioritizes minimizing harmful chemical exposure, green beauty takes a broader view, aiming for sustainability and environmental harmony. Here’s a handy guide if you’re serious about making meaningful change. By integrating these principles into your routine, you can protect yourself from harmful toxins while contributing to a healthier planet. And by becoming an informed, conscious consumer, you help shift the entire market towards cleaner, greener standards.
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Rosehip, jojoba, and moringa oils are here! These three powerhouse oils combine nature’s finest nutrients to elevate your skincare ritual. Rosehip Oil is a vitamin-rich elixir packed with antioxidants and essential fatty acids that brighten and nourish the skin while enhancing hydration. Known for its rejuvenating properties, it’s an ideal choice for supporting skin elasticity and radiance. Jojoba Oil, a fast-absorbing, vitamin E-rich oil, mimics the skin’s natural sebum, making it exceptional for restoring moisture, reducing dryness, and strengthening the skin barrier. Finally, Moringa Oil delivers a boost of vitamins, antioxidants, and proteins to revitalize and soften the skin, promoting repair and a healthy glow. All three oils are versatile carriers, perfect for blending with your favorite essential oils.
Cosmetically and therapeutically unparalleled in its ability to support supple skin health and healing. The go-to oil for skin-beautifying and restorative serums, as it is supportive to aging or damaged skin, significantly enhancing skin health, rejuvenation, and beauty. Its powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties make it ideal for promoting a smooth, even skin tone, reducing the appearance of scars, and encouraging natural radiance.
A luxurious and deeply aromatic oil, Jasmine is renowned for its ability to calm and nourish both the skin and the spirit. Used as a gentle toner, it helps soothe upset or reddened skin, promoting a fresh, glowing complexion. Its hydrating properties make it ideal for dry or sensitive skin types, while its naturally uplifting aroma supports emotional balance and a sense of inner peace, making it a favorite in self-care rituals.
A potent purifying oil with powerful antimicrobial and antiseptic properties, Tea Tree is a must-have for promoting clear, healthy skin. It is particularly effective for addressing blemishes, calming redness, and balancing oily or acne-prone skin. In addition to its skincare benefits, Tea Tree oil can help soothe minor cuts, bites, and irritations, making it an essential addition to any natural first aid kit.
An ancient and revered oil, Frankincense is cherished for its ability to rejuvenate the skin and promote a youthful appearance. Its astringent properties help tighten and firm the skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Frankincense also supports skin repair and regeneration, making it ideal for addressing scars, age spots, and sun damage. Beyond its cosmetic uses, this sacred oil fosters feelings of grounding, relaxation, and spiritual connection.
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