For most of human history, sun protection didn’t come in a bottle.
Long before SPF ratings and beachside tanning oils, people turned to nature, rituals, and other ancestral knowledge to shield their skin from the sun. Today, as our climate shifts and ultraviolet radiation intensifies, many are asking more pointed questions—not just about how we protect our skin, but what we’re protecting it with. Could we be doing more from the inside out?
Many ancient cultures relied on herbal allies and nutritional choices to protect their skin. Today, holistic practitioners are increasingly considering the need for “internal SPF”: eating and supplementing with photoprotective plants. We often think of sunscreen as purely topical, but our diet can play a surprising role in solar defense. So, if food existed for centuries before lab-made sunscreens were available, how did we become so disconnected from this reality?
Let’s explore the history and science of sun protection beyond external applications of endocrine-disrupting oils, lotions, and after-sun creams, separate myth from fact, and highlight the top herbs and foods (rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and UV-absorbing compounds) that can help bolster your skin’s natural defenses from the inside out.
Sun protection is not new. Evidence suggests that early Homo sapiens in Africa were naturally shielded from UV damage by high levels of melanin. As humans migrated to regions with less sun exposure, they gradually lost this built-in protection, making external methods of skin shielding increasingly critical over time. [1]
Ancient civilizations revered the sun yet wisely sought shade and remedies. Egyptians used rice bran, jasmine, and lupine not only for beauty but also for sun defense—ingredients that modern science now recognizes as UV-absorbing, DNA-repairing, and skin-brightening. [2], [3], [4] The Greeks relied on olive oil, later shown in studies to offer an SPF of around 8. [5]
In East Asia, parasols, hats, and even silk or rice-paper masks were used for sun-blocking fashion from medieval times onward. Japanese women applied white face powders made from lead or mercury to maintain a pale complexion. In Europe, zinc or white lead powders (a primitive SPF) were popular by the Renaissance. (Of course, many such methods were imperfect and toxic by modern standards.)
In Burma (Myanmar), thanaka—a yellowish-white paste made from sandalwood, used for beauty and sun protection—has been a symbol of Burmese culture and a skincare staple for over 2,000 years. European aristocrats wore velvet visards—face masks that physically blocked the sun. Over the last few decades, the “facekini” became a Chinese fashion phenomenon, originating from Zhang Shifan in the seaside city of Qingdao, and garnering great international interest and amusement. These early methods, and their modern counterparts, didn’t simply uphold the beauty standards of their time. They were practical tools for survival in harsh solar environments, laying the foundation for the sun care systems we rely on today.
The science of sun exposure began emerging in the 1800s. In 1801, Johann Wilhelm Ritter discovered ultraviolet radiation, sparking a century of experiments that linked sun exposure with pigmentation, erythema (skin reddening), and eventually, cancer. In 1891, German physician Dr. Hammer developed one of the first chemical sunscreens using quinine. Shortly after, Paul Unna (considered the father of dermatopathology) described precancerous skin changes caused by chronic sun exposure.
Still, it wasn’t until the 20th century that sunscreen became accessible to the public. In the 1940s, WWII airmen used red veterinary petroleum for sunburn protection, and pharmacist Benjamin Green transformed this into a consumer-friendly formula by adding cocoa butter and coconut oil, which gave birth to Coppertone. Swiss chemist Franz Greiter, after suffering a burn while climbing Mt. Piz Buin, created the first commercially viable sunscreen in 1946: Gletscher Crème, later branded Piz Buin. He went on to develop the SPF rating system in 1962. [6]
By the late 1970s, the FDA began regulating sunscreens, and the 1980s saw the widespread adoption of SPF 15–30 formulas with chemical filters, such as avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate. [7] Meanwhile, tanning beds—marketed as “safer” UV alternatives—flooded the market, later shown to increase melanoma risk up to 75 percent.
By the 20th century, scientific sunscreens had emerged, but interest in internal support had also grown. For example, some research shows plants rich in polypodium, ferulic acid, and carotenoids can raise the minimal erythema dose, which is the threshold for sunburn. Still, dermatologists emphasize that dietary antioxidants complement but do not replace sunscreen. Even as skin cancer rates are projected to increase by over 140 percent by 2050, combining external sun safety measures, such as clothing, shade, and topical SPF, with a healthy diet offers a holistic approach to integrating the best of ancestral knowledge and current science.
The phrase “internal sunscreen” may have got your attention (we’re glad you’re here!), but it’s important to separate hype from science. Yes, specific nutrients and phytochemicals do boost the skin’s resilience: Antioxidants neutralize UV-generated free radicals, vitamins support DNA repair and collagen, and some plant oils can even absorb UV.
However, you heard it from the herbalists first: There is no magic herb or pill that provides complete SPF on its own. Holistic health experts warn that including antioxidants in a sun-protection regime makes sense, but they can’t do the job by themselves. For example, while astaxanthin and beta-carotene have some protective effects, they should not be used to replace broad-spectrum SPF.
In practice, internal photoprotection should supplement (not substitute) external measures. Think of it this way: a diet rich in sun-supportive foods helps give your skin an extra buffer and repair capacity, so you burn more slowly and recover faster. Studies have even found that dietary polyphenols and vitamins can increase the minimal UV dose required to cause skin reddening (the minimal erythema dose). But always remember: a carrot smoothie isn’t a lotion. Use nontoxic sunscreen and hats first, as you enjoy skin-nourishing herbs for added protection.
Here are some of the most promising plants and nutrients to consider. Each offers specific photoprotective or skin-supportive properties (often backed by laboratory or clinical research):
Schisandra (Schisandra chinensis)
A five-flavor adaptogenic berry, schisandra is rich in lignans (schisandrins) and flavonoids. Modern research praises the potent antioxidants in schisandra extracts for their anti-aging effects. Lab studies indicate its lignans protect skin cells from UVB-induced damage, likely by reducing oxidative stress. For example, individual lignans from schisandra have been shown to guard keratinocytes against UVB injury. As an adaptogen, schisandra also helps the body cope with environmental stressors, including UV stress.
Green tea (Camellia sinensis)
Matcha is rich in catechins (notably EGCG). Numerous studies have shown that green tea polyphenols exhibit photoprotective properties. Oral green tea catechin supplementation has also been shown to increase the minimal erythema dose for UV-induced redness significantly. In plain terms, drinking green tea made subjects’ skin less prone to sunburn in trials. EGCG also calms UV-driven inflammation. So, sipping matcha (or taking a green tea extract) can gently fortify the skin's defenses. Continue reading about the numerous benefits of matcha here.
Gynostemma (Gynostemma pentaphyllum)
Known as the “herb of immortality,” gynostemma is an adaptogenic vine that contains saponins, which mimic the effects of exercise. A 2014 lab study of mice showed Gynostemma extract prolonged the survival of skin fibroblasts exposed to UVC (a lab proxy for oxidative stress). In practice, that means its antioxidant compounds may help injured human skin cells live and recover longer. It also supports healthy circulation, nourishing skin tissue from within.
Hibiscus flowers abound in anthocyanins, vitamin C, and organic acids. These pigments give hibiscus its red color and are potent antioxidants. Studies show hibiscus extracts can reduce UVB-induced cell death by inhibiting pro-apoptotic (cell-damage) pathways. One experiment found that Hibiscus syriacus anthocyanins suppressed UVB-triggered caspase activity in keratinocytes, indicating that they helped cells survive UV stress. In skincare, hibiscus is often touted for its firming and brightening properties. These effects likely stem from its ability to combat free radicals and support collagen (via vitamin C).
He shou wu (Polygonum multiflorum)
A classic Chinese tonic known as fo-ti, he shou wu is traditionally used for longevity, liver health, and youthfulness (often for hair and skin). In TCM, it’s believed to “tonify the blood” and nourish skin tone. While rigorous sun-specific studies are limited, Fo-Ti contains antioxidants (stilbenes like resveratrol) that may indirectly protect skin by supporting liver detoxification. Caution: Modern case reports document that misuse or overdose of he shou wu may cause liver injury. Use only sustainably cultivated, high-quality extracts and consult a trusted health professional.
Roses aren’t just fragrant; the petals contain anthocyanins, polyphenols, and flavonoids with soothing properties. One study on Rosa gallica petal extract found it had remarkable free-radical scavenging ability and reduced UV-induced inflammation in skin cells. Treated cells showed lower COX-2 enzyme levels and fewer inflammatory cytokines after UV exposure. In traditional herbalism, rose petals are considered “cooling,” which makes them helpful for alleviating heat-related redness or skin sensitivity. Rose tea or extracts can be taken for a mild antioxidative boost; rosewater is also used topically to calm and tone sun-stressed skin.
In both Western and Asian herbal traditions, burdock is a classic “blood purifier.” The root contains compounds (like arctiin, lignans, and polyphenols) that support liver detox and circulation. Since burdock root is thought to “detoxify” the blood and promote blood flow to the skin, improving texture and helping to alleviate conditions like eczema, its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory actions may help clear heat-induced breakouts (like sun-triggered rashes). You can drink burdock root tea or take it in capsule form; it’s often combined with nettle or yellow dock to help cool the system and cleanse the skin via other bodily systems.
The famous “herb of longevity” from Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine, gotu kola, is revered for its role in collagen synthesis and wound healing. Its triterpene glycosides (asiaticoside, madecassoside) have been shown to accelerate wound contraction and stimulate fibronectin and type I collagen production. Centella extracts may improve scar healing and can soften aging lines. Since UV damages collagen and impairs healing, regular ingestion of gotu kola (via tea or supplements) helps maintain the skin’s matrix from within. This is one reason why cosmetic products often include Centella for its firming properties.
This Amazonian berry is renowned for its exceptionally high vitamin C content; in fact, it’s one of the highest found in nature. Vitamin C from camu camu enhances antioxidant defenses and supports collagen, helping the skin recover from UV exposure. (Although direct human trials are scarce, the logic is clear: more vitamin C = better photoprotection and repair.) Many herbalists recommend camu camu as a superior, naturally occurring whole-fruit source of C.
The golden spice turmeric contains curcumin, a potent anti-inflammatory antioxidant. Curcumin has been shown in lab models to suppress UV-induced inflammation and photoaging. It does this partly by activating Nrf2, a genetic pathway that ramps up the body’s antioxidant enzymes. In cell studies, curcumin has been shown to reduce UVB-driven inflammatory signals and DNA damage. While turmeric alone won’t stop a sunburn, its regular consumption can help mitigate chronic inflammation caused by UV exposure and may aid in fading post-sun pigmentation.
Amla, a.k.a. Indian Gooseberry, is a revered Ayurvedic “rasayana” (rejuvenative tonic) and is exceptionally high in vitamin C and gallic acid. Research on human skin cells indicates that amla extract stimulates collagen production (procollagen) and significantly reduces collagenase activity (MMP-1). In practical terms, amla promotes firmer skin by stimulating collagen production and slowing its breakdown. Its potent antioxidant effect also means better protection against UV-induced oxidative stress. As an internal herb, amla is often taken daily (in powder or syrup form) to tone the complexion and support overall skin health.
Amaranth (Amaranthus spp.)
Amaranth grain (and especially its oil) is rich in squalene (4–8%) plus vitamin E and unsaturated fats. Laboratory tests showed that amaranth seed oil helped protect collagen-producing fibroblasts from UVA damage. In other words, it modestly shields skin proteins from UV-A. (Researchers note that amaranth alone isn’t a full sunscreen, but as an oil component, it can be part of a protective blend.) Its antioxidant profile also helps counteract UV-induced aging.
Baobab fruit (Adansonia digitata)
The African baobab yields a powdery fruit pulp exceptionally high in vitamin C and polyphenols. Raw baobab has about six times the vitamin C of an orange by weight. Vitamin C is critical for collagen synthesis and wound repair, and polyphenols (plant antioxidants) directly neutralize UV free radicals. Plants often make polyphenols to defend against sunlight, so baobab’s abundance of these compounds helps mitigate UV-driven inflammation and supports skin firming.
These foods and herbs provide a rich blend of antioxidants, vitamins, and phytochemicals that nourish and fortify skin cells. No single ingredient is an all-in-one cure, but in combination, they raise our internal “shield.” Think of a daily ritual: matcha or rosehip tea in the morning, colorful veggies (carotenoids, vitamin C) midday, and an evening herbal elixir with schisandra, turmeric, or hibiscus. Over time, this nutrient-dense diet helps build up photoprotective pigments (like carotenoids), robust collagen, and a calmer inflammatory response.
It bears repeating: dietary support is a complement to, not a replacement for, sunscreen and shade. Even the most vigorous antioxidant regimen won’t entirely block UVA/UVB. Always follow sun-smart habits – wear nontoxic, broad-spectrum SPF 30+ on exposed areas, reapply often, and seek shade during the peak sun hours. Then, leverage nature’s farm-to-pharmacy gifts: Our Botanical Beauty Collection formulas combine several of the above herbs. Even if you prefer whole foods, having a convenient mix can help ensure you get these phytonutrients daily.
Additionally, general dietary measures boost photoprotection. For example, foods rich in carotenoids (such as carrots, sweet potatoes, and tomatoes) deposit pigments in the skin and can reduce sunburn sensitivity. Omega-3 fatty acids (from oily fish or flax) have anti-inflammatory benefits. Staying well-hydrated and managing stress (another source of skin “inflammation”) also supports overall skin resilience. You can think of holistic skin defense as building your outer layers of protection first from within.
While no diet will ever receive an official “SPF 50” rating, strategic nutrition helps strengthen the skin’s defenses and repair mechanisms. In other words, eating with your skin in mind pays off. So next time you plan a sunny weekend, remember the broad view: high-SPF lotion plus a salad of sun-supportive herbs and greens. This inside-out approach can help mitigate sun stress, soothe any reddening more quickly, and keep skin supple year-round.
As you enjoy the sun this season, be curious: Which herbs seem to help your skin the most? Because it’s clear what we eat truly reflects on our skin’s overall glow. Our ancestors knew this, and now so do you. If you still have burning questions about this or other herbalism topics, let this be your friendly reminder to consider booking an herbal session with us!
*The above statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration.
